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Expedition to Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet)- 5th tallest mountain in the world . . . . . ! |
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TRIP FACTS:
Country: Nepal
Region: Makalu Arun Valley
Activities: Climbing Expedition
Duration: 55 Days
Altitude: (8463 meters / 27766 feet)- 5th tallest mountain in the World.
Difficulty: Grade V
Group Size: 2-12
Season: April-May-June , September-October-November
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Makalu Expedition- Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet) is the fifth tallest mountain in the world. It lies in the northeast region of Nepal's Himalaya and close neighbor to Mount Everest. Makalu means the Great Black One, so called due to its dark brooding appearance. The first attempt on Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet) was in 1954 by an American team. At the same time a British team approached the mountain, but this expedition was abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated. In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In the following spring of 1955 (15th of May, 1955); successfully ascents were made by three teams of French climbers on successive days. The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975, it was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the British Everest reconnaissance in 1921. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu 8201meter expedition.
Our route does transverse first climbing all the way to Neghe Kharka, crossing the Barun Khola flowing from Mount Makalu. The route to Makalu Base Camp (4823m) involves a sustained period at altitude with some steep slopes, but rewards with powerful views of Makalu to the north. Expedition to Mount Makalu is really a demanding attempt - it's also the reason why Makalu has not been attempted like other peaks. From a base camp at the foot of the Chago Glacier, we will use 4 camps on the mountain, including camp 3 on the Makalu La at 7,400m and a high camp on the North Face at approximately 7,800m. This is the realm of the glaciers, surrounded by the unforgettable presence of the world's mightiest mountains; and brooding above the towering bulk of Mount Everest itself.
Mount Makalu West Face:
Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet) Expedition in Nepal is very adventurous route to climb because on the Mount Makalu west face it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this mountain; then only it was succeeded in the final. The West Face of this mountain was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".
The routes are of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8000 meters height till to the top of the summit.
Ropes are typically fixed from 5800 meters to 6100 meters and from 6500 meters to 7500 meters. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7600 meters in the area of the Seignior Wall. The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit of Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet) without the use of oxygen and Sherpa support.
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Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Prepare Expedition
Day 03: Expedition Briefing in Ministry of tourism
Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar trek to Chichila (1850m.)
Day 05: Chichila - Num (1505m.)
Day 06: Num- Seduwa (1530m.)
Day 07: Seduwa - Tashigaun (2065m.)
Day 08: Tashigaun - Khongma La Danda (3562m.)
Day 09: Khongma danda - Mumbuk (4200m.)
Day 10: Mumbuk -Yangle Kharka (3610m.)
Day 11: Yangle Kharka -Merak
Day 12: Merak -Sersung (4650m.) half day rest for acclimatize
Day 13: Sersung - Makalu Base camp (4850m.)
Day 14: Makalu Base Camp (FOR THE NECESSARY ACCLIMATIZATION & FOR THE HIGH CAMP ARRANGEMENTS).
Day 15: Makalu (Higher) Base Camp (5600 meters).
Day 16-47: Climbing Period for MOUNT MAKALU (8463 meters / 27766 feet)
Day 48: Makalu BC - Mumbuk
Day 49: Mumbuk - Khongma La (Danda)
Day 50: Khongma La - Seduwa
Day 51: Seduwa - Chichila
Day 52: Chichila - Tumlingtar
Day 53: Fly back Tumlingtar to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
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Price List
- US$ 20000 (1 Person)
- US$ 13500 per peson (2 Persons)
- US$ 9700 per person (3 Persons)
- US$ 8900 per person (4 Persons)
- US$ 7900 per person (7+ Persons)
Climbing Sherpa guide USD 2500
Garbage Deposit USD 3000 (refundable)
(Garbage Deposit sharing into the total person and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the client (climbers) does not take back their garbage
Cost Includes :
- Airport pickup and drop
- Maximum 4 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed and Breakfast
- Expedition Permit of Mount Makalu
- Domestic flight of Kathmandu-Tumlingtar, Tumlingtar-Katmandu with 30 kg cargo per member
- Twin sharing accommodation in lodge during the trek
- Meals (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner) for trekking and in Base Camp Expedition period
- 1 Tent for 1 member in Base Camp for Expedition period
- Basecamp Guide, Cook, Cook helper, Porter or Yak porter
- Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew
- Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
- Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs in Base Camp for the expedition period
- First Aid Kit
- Culture Dinner Program as farewell treatment
- Agency Service Charge and Tax.
Cost Excludes:
- Airport taxes and Nepalese visa fee
- Personal Trekking and Climbing-Expedition Equipments
- Climbing Equipments, Oxygen and Mask -regulator, food, Gas and stove for above Base camp
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu, Extra nights Accommodation in Kathmandu
- Walkie Talkie permit or Satellite phone permit
- Bar Bills, beverage and other personal expenses
- Tips for Guide/Sherpa and porters
- Emergency Rescue evacuation cost by helicopter incase needed
- Personal and medical Insurance of expedition Climber
- Emergency medical and rescue/evacuation insurance
- Any extra cost arose due to natural calamities, political disturbance and delay arrival etc.
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INDEPENDENT HIMALAYAN ADVENTURE / GPO BOX 3486, THAMEL 29, KATHMANDU- NEPAL
Tel: +977 1 424 9214 Fax: +977 1 424 9214 Mob 1: +977 98510 53909 Mob 2: +977 98010 53909 E-mail: info@nepal-expedition.com |
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